Shoe Construction Methods

Cemented Construction

The upper part of the shoe is glued with a strong adhesive to the sole. This means there is no stitching or welt.In the "Cemented" construction, the upper part, and possibly the membrane, continue underneath the insole for a few centimetres. That upper part is glued to the midsole. The "sock" is then manually glued to the outsole. If you take off the removable insole, there will be no seams visible.

cementconstruction

 

Blake Stitched

Blake stitching is one of the first mechanized methods of shoemaking. It is a simple, quick and cost effective way to make shoes by utilizing a stitch that goes through the insole, uppers and outsole. This means that the shoemaker must use a machine.

 

Goodyear Welt

The most famous and iconic type of shoe construction. It is a laborious, intensive and very durable way to make high quality shoes. The biggest difference here is a canvas rib under the insole with glue and a strip of leather around the perimeter of the sole. The shoemaker fills the cavity between the insole and midsole with cork filling, while the welt is sewn to the midsole and outsole with a Rapid Stitch.

Strobel Construction

In the "Strobel" construction, the upper part and possibly the membrane as well, stop closer to the inner edge of the sole. By the use of specific machines, they are both sewn to either the midsole or the outsole. In some models, an outsole can then be glued on or injected. If you take off the removable insole, you will see seams.

 

California Construction

The California construction is popular in casual footwear but there's nothing casual about this very precise method.More specifically, this is because the upper, socks and wrapper of a shoe are sewn together before the last is forced into the upper. This means that each and every part must be cut and stitched accurately so that the shoe can come together like a fine piece of architecture. After the final gluing and lasting, the sole is cemented to give it a strong and sturdy finish.

 

Moccasin Construction

The genuine moccasin is made with a particular wraparound construction. It has a single layer section which forms the insole, vamp and quarters. This piece is moulded upwards from the under surface of the last and then an apron is stitched to the gathered edges of the vamp and the sole to the base of the shoe.

San Crispino

The upper folds around the insole and the stitch goes twice through them.

cousu san crispino ctc.jpg 20179881

PU Direct Inject Process

The PU, in liquid form is Injected into the closed mold (holding the upper) at high pressure. Thus we get the term "Direct Injection Moulding".The PU hardens and permanently fuses into one piece with the upper. There is absolutely no chance of separation.

Direct injection moulding or Direct Moulding points to the fact, that the soles are moulded directly onto the upper without use of adhesives or stitching.This is possible because of the dramatic speed at which monomers polymerise to form network polyurethane, a process that is so rapid, that articles may be fabricated by injecting the reacting monomers directly into a mould.High Mixing speed of over 18000 RPM resulting in better grain structure and thus better physical properties.

cousu injecte ctc.jpg 20179138